| Once again there is frost
on the barren lawn in the morning and the pair of cardinals that flits
around the birch all day. Often, the sun stays hidden until late
afternoon when it makes a brief appearance and again provides that
ravishing pink, gold and pale dove sunset. The smell of more
substantive meals hangs in the corners of the dining room now. Save for
Keith Jarrett, all is hushed here. Winter, with such silences, and
hopefully peace. Winter is a time of piqued appetite and lusher tunes,
of generosities-large and small- and thankfulness.
We are so remiss in our gratitude, or its
expression. Years flit by, apparently without the time for
acknowledgement. This year, out in the cheese department, we appreciate
a refrigerator covered with the enchanting art of our patrons’
children. We thank you for Illustrated novellas from a loving five year
old and the refinement of old world pastries from a most gracious
septuagenarian. Thanks to you for the suave pear butter and the
glistening black currant preserves made with those rare Bar de Luc
currants. Thanks for pears, again, in crisp and crumbly pear tartes
(Tatins or otherwise). Thanks for pungent, still-warm gingerbread, a
quintessential German plum torte, and chocolate dipped shortbread.
Thanks for a perfect bar of pistachio nougat tucked into a backpack in
Paris. Thanks for 99% cacao chocolate, saffron and truffles from
northern Italy, and journals and haberdashery from there as well.
Thanks and props for coveted recipes that we would never dare ask for-
from Italy, Iran, Puerto Rico, Greece, Provence, Spain, Louisiana and
Center Square. Thanks for pungent La Mancha saffron somehow gotten
through customs, and Spanish cheeses unavailable for export. Thank you
for a munificence of homegrown vegetables, and for the resultant
ratatouille on a torrid late August weekend. Thanks for a still-warm
tortilla Espagnol one early Sunday morning, and for a profoundly
nurturing potpie at a most somber time. Always, thanks for the hug, the
advice and wisdom, the tears, the more frequent smiles.
Of course there is no way to thank all of
you- our customers, members and staff. Perhaps we can make your life a
bit easier this giving time of year with help with a gift basket, a
hostess gift, or a recipe. We will make every effort to provide some
new things for you to savor this season, and to share with those you
love. Tanna’s Tuscan salt makes a nice gift, just as a jar of any of
her chutneys, perhaps with a piece of goat cheese. We use the salt on
‘most everything. As for cheeses, we have several new varieties as well
as traditional holiday favorites. Sample the new line of raw goat
cheese from the Chaput cheese makers up in Chateauguay, Quebec. The
Chaput family believes strongly in the health benefits of raw milk, for
the sake of nutrition and immunity, and their several varieties of
old-French style cheeses are an anticipated addition to our cheese
case. Or try those new little “Chevrechard aux epices”, or “C. au
pimenton d’espelettes” from la belle France. They look grand on a
cheese platter and were a definite hit in November. A big chunk of
Montasio accompanied by a jar of t pear Mostarda from Casa Forcelli
would make a generous gift for your Italophile who has everything, as
would a substantive shard of Grana padano, which is quite superior
lately. We have haunting truffle cheeses and a good selection of fruity
and satisfying wine-soaked specimens from Italy and Spain. We now offer
six varieties of Manchego, a testament to our customers’ commitment and
discernment. With any of those we might suggest a slab of the new
Membrillo, or quince paste, that has a delightfully granular texture
and a sharp note of quince, making for a brilliant accompaniment for
any variety of Manchego. We promise to keep a good stock of Stilton for
the traditionalist, and a selection of traditional style Cheddars, from
BritainVermont. And there will be our usual array of celebratory triple
crèmes and robioli. and
Those best-selling Grilled Green Olives
from outside of Rome are now available in jars- perfect in a gift
basket. We will have our usual selection of superior extra virgin olive
oils and balsamic vinegars from 6 to 30 years old. Rustichella
d’Abruzzo has several new pasta shapes, many in whole wheat and faro.
We’d be happy with Mister Claus if he merely brought us a bag of their
Fregola Sardo. If he added a chunk of Moliterno, and a jar of that
Pommodoracio tomato antipasto, we’d ask him to stay for supper. The
fregola, like a toastier Israeli couscous, might provide a nice bed for
a roasted bird or a savory vegetable stew. We have the complete line of
infused olive oil and vinegar from the à l’Olivier company.
Finally, successful infusions! The celebrated Moulins Mahjoub Company
has a beautifully packaged new couscous and two new harissa sauces if
you need to satisfy a racier foodie pal. We have a new line of truffle
products, including truffle flour that doesn’t lose its depth when
heated (as truffle oil so often will). There are new truffle honeys and
salts, and we have finally tracked down the elusive Italian Cremina
Cremosa Tartufo, an erstwhile favorite around here. We might advise
that you savor truffles in some form this winter before they become
even more outrageously expensive. Likewise, saffron- we have the
beautifully- packaged ounces-and is there a better gift for a
culinarian whom you love? We have the best selection of preserves ever,
including the intense Harvest Song sour cherry preserves that we love
on a luxuriant triple crème. Mostarda, that enigmatically
Italian fruit preserve spiked with mustard, is now available in pear,
plum and crabapple. We love “gli mostardi” with our new Italian
Tavoliere or Panarello, or alongside a big wintry roast or vegetable
stew. From the elegant Marzoni Company we have fruit pastes, intense
with pear, plum or fig.
Once again, we have those grand Italian
holiday desserts, to whit the traditional Pannetone, Panforte and
Turron from the Manicharetti folks. We ordered a lot of those
gorgeously packaged Siennese panforte so we won’t run out like last
year. We have a new selection of chocolates from Michel Cluizel, as
elegant and alluring a line of chocolate as we know of. Michel Cluizel
Chocolatier is based in Normandy and has been dipping and filling and
spreading outstanding chocolate creations since 1948. They have
long-term fair trade relations with the finest cacao plantations in the
world. They use the finest bourbon vanilla and no soy lecithin, a
blessing to those with an allergy to soy. We’ll have a très luxe
ballotine of filled bon bons, with marzipan, praline and gianduja
fillings. We all have someone on our gift list that doesn’t need but
wants that! Les Normands will also provide whimsical mushrooms and the
shatteringly crisp Maracolats, a form of macaroon filled with various
ganaches. Plus we carry some of their single estate chocolate bars with
cacao contents ranging up to 85%. (Adieu, Valrhona). April and Wei
Zhang, no doubt with the assistance of the lovely Vicenza, continue to
create their intense, beautifully- packaged truffles again this season.
There will be the dark, dark espresso, the ginger milk chocolate, the
superb malt ganache truffle with its smattering of pralin, as well as a
recently developed jasmine-infused truffle. Mariam of Dutch Desserts
will provide her usual array of crisp, buttery crusted fruit and
chocolate “taarts”, as well as her new butterscotch shortbreads. We
could never thank enough people like Mariam, April, Tanna, and
Vittorio, etal, for their continued hard work and support year round.
Likewise, profound thanks to you, our
customers, members and friends who share their gustatory pleasures,
advice, talents, families, and lives with us- every day, year in and
year out. Maybe some of the products mentioned above will make your
gift giving easier, or give an old recipe new life. In any event, we
wish you most convivial holidays and every blessing in the New Year.
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