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What I Choose to Buy at the Co-op... and Why

A series of monthly articles by members of our Nutrition & Education committee

by Louise Frazier

In February, as the days get longer  while cold and snow often linger, thoughts turn to sweetness and warmth — and what could better satisfy both than beets! Good old Northeast beets hailing from New York, New England or just across the border from Canada, which the Co-op often carries. Some are really big, deep red and intensely packed with the sweetness they drew down from the past summer’s sun. So while some people bask on southern beaches in the sun, we have the gift of the sun preserved right here in our produce section to relish in many delightful dishes.

Think of fresh winter salads made with grated fresh beets, or lactic acid (LA) fermented beets — both so flavorsome when mixed with hearty New York apples! How about a beet spread — like a winter pesto — to put on some whole grain bread or crackers? Old World beet borscht; cooked beets, quartered or heart-shaped, sliced for Valentine’s Day with a fruit juice glaze — sour cherry for Presidents Day — baked beets; and red flannel buckwheat-beet hash, are all variations on a beet theme for February too.

And last, but not least, add cooked beets to homemade brownies or chocolate cake — especially Devil’s Food! That’s what we did with leftover cooked beets for the visiting students program at Hawthorne Valley Farm — and the kids laughed and loved it when we told them later! We used carob instead of chocolate, however, to avoid the sugar/caffeine shock of sweetened chocolate. Beets can substitute in carrot cake or cookie recipes, too!

Here are some recipes from my kitchen:

NOTE: Lactic acid-fermented beets and fresh sauerkraut can be found in the refrigerated section toward the back of the store, just in to the right of the café entrance.

Red Beet Salads

Scrub and finely grate beets. Mix with coarsely grated apple (1:1 ratio), finely grated ginger to taste, drizzle with lemon juice and oil. Sometimes I mix in chopped fresh sauerkraut, too, for a super supper salad.

Beautiful Beet Spread

Toast until aromatic ½ cup sunflower seeds (or walnuts or almonds). Purée in a blender or food processor together with 6 medium cooked beets cut up (peeled or unpeeled), 1 tsp ground allspice + 1 tsp anise seeds + 1 TBS dried tarragon leaves.
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup olive oil — more or less to obtain spreadable consistency
Add salt or miso or tamari or umeboshi, to taste.

Beet Borscht or Polish Broth

Cook 4 large scrubbed beets cut in quarters or chunks with 1 large chopped New York Bold or red local onion, ½ cup minced celeriac + 2 cups chopped red cabbage together in 8 cups fresh water, along with 3 bay leaves, 4 allspice balls or ½ tsp ground allspice, 1 tsp caraway seeds + 1 TBS dried leaf tarragon.

Bring to boil and simmer until beets are fork-tender (about 1+ hour).

When serving, add 1–2 TBS fresh sauerkraut or LAcultured beets* in each bowl and pour hot borscht over it, then top with a dollop of yogurt — Old Chatham sheep yogurt is delicious! Pass chunks of crusty whole grain bread for dunking.

Otherwise, borscht can also be served over boiled potatoes along with the LA beets or sauerkraut.

* Borscht was never made with vinegar — but fresh sauerkraut or LA beets were added traditionally!

for Polish Broth

Add 2 cups vegetable stock or 2 chopped carrots and ¼ cup lemon juice before cooking borscht, as above. Remove from heat and stir in 1 cup of fresh sauerkraut or LA beets.

Strain — reserving vegetables to make red flannel buckwheat/kasha hash or beet spread — and serve as clear broth.

Buckwheat Red Flannel Hash

In skillet, lightly sauté in oil chopped fresh onions with cooked beets. Season with ground allspice and tarragon or marjoram.

Top with leftover cooked buckwheat/kasha, pressing mixture together.

Brown and serve topped with a dollop of yogurt — or spread with your favorite mustard.

Option: After onions are sautéed until translucent, assemble and bake at 350° for 30 minutes. Serve as above. This hash is also delicious served with poached eggs on top!

I keep these recipes low-salt or no-added-salt to compensate for the light salt and sour flavorings of the lactic acid fermented vegetable additions.

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