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Informing about Skin Deep

What I Choose to Buy at the Co-op... and Why.

A series of monthly articles by members of our Nutrition and Education Committee

 
by Louise Maher-Johnson

 When my child was young, more than twenty years ago, I was very familiar with the ingredients in every bodycare product that I purchased. She was pan-allergic to many synthetic chemicals, and also to some natural ones in these bathroom- sink products, and to dozens of whole food items as well. Her main nickname was Sweetpea, but I also called her Barometer, for her frequent allergic reactions were readily measurable. For instance, she had a discernable and immediate reaction at age three to her first jelly bean. When she sucked the red dye and showed me how white it had become, I also watched halfdollar- sized hives blooming over her small body.

Her diet was always simple and closely supervised, including her diet of bodycare products. And I knew what was in the soaps, lotions, toothpastes, etc., that I purchased.

That was then, when the lead in chips of old paint was big news. This is now, when 61% of recently tested lipsticks in the U.S. market contain lead (see www.safecosmetics.org and www.environmentalhealthnews.org) — and it’s not in the news. This is now, when the same bodycare products that were on my safety list 20 years ago have additional and suspect synthetic ingredients, at least in the United States.

The shampoos and lotions, which I have used for two decades, now often contain one or more of the estrogenic (i.e., they can disrupt hormones) preservatives — parabens — which were not in the product back then, and aren’t in the product when currently sold in the European Union. The EU has actually banned these common preservatives, along with 1,100 ingredients that are still in use in the U.S. Our multinational cosmetics companies have had to change their formulations for the European market.

I first learned about the change in the product line over a year ago, when our Health and Body Aids (HaBA) manager pointed it out. It has taken me some time to catch up with her tip and do the research. I used a single website, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) at (click on its Skin Deep database), to do updated checks on products I had thought to be safe. It turned out that 94 Nature’s Gate products are examined, ingredient by ingredient — and 27 are currently rated as either No or Low Hazard. So this database is a way to choose the safest individual products, not just by brand. Aubrey, for instance, scores No or Low Hazard on 83 of its 113 products.

In 2004, EWG first published this comprehensive database, which brings together available independent and government science. The database cross-references 10,000 chemicals and 25,000 products against 50 small toxicity databases. EWG lists, for example, the ingredients in 480 toothpastes, provides safety scores by ingredient and also by product, and gives an overall list of these toothpastes from the most to least safe. One can easily access the safest products, according to known science.

But, since the science is so incomplete, a “science gap” percentile is also given for each product rated. EWG’s advice: Simpler (i.e., fewer ingredients) is usually safer. Avoid “fragrance,” as it often masks toxic or untested synthetic chemicals such as phthalates (unless the fragrance is composed of natural ingredients, as in and products). Avoid preservatives, like parabens. But, as there is no short-list to avoid, the recommendation is to check each of your favorite products. And tell others, as many of us don’t realize these bodycare products are being absorbed through the skin, and are being inhaled or ingested.

Our Co-op has for years been promulgating EWG’s list of the “Dirty Dozen” (i.e., high pesticide residue) produce, which should be purchased organic, and also the “Cleanest 12.” We have shared information from EWG’s Body Burden research (also done by the Centers for Disease Control and the Red Cross), which demonstrated that almost 200 known toxic chemicals are found in umbilical cord blood of newborns, as well as in adult blood and urine.

Continuing to inform consumers, we recently cosponsored a stop on author Stacy Malkan’s national book tour for Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry. She reminded us that we all use multiple personal care products, getting multiple hits daily of minute amounts (we assume — but ingredient amounts are not listed) of one or more chemicals suspected of causing cancer or reproductive harm. And so, our bodies contain mixes of these synthetic chemicals, most of which have unknown effects. For children, the timing as well as the amount of exposure is crucial.

And Malkan told us about Charlotte Brody, an environmentalist, nurse and mother whose family was one of first tested in the Body Burden research. Brody had described how violated she felt when tests revealed more than a hundred toxins, such as pesticides, in the blood of her family members — whom she thought were safe, because she bought organic foods and didn’t use pesticides.

Our Co-op plans to continue providing safety information in 2008, as we are working on a written safety protocol for HaBA products that will be voted on by Honest Weight members.

In the new year, we all can upgrade our personal “precautionary principle index” by using products that don’t contain chemicals on the EU Cosmetic Directive’s banned list, and by checking the EWG database. We can also use products from the hundreds of small U.S. companies that have pledged not to use these chemicals by signing the Compact for Safe Cosmetics (see www.safecosmetics.org).

And take note: Both Malkan’s Not Just a Pretty Face and Mark Schapiro’s excellent new book, Exposed: The Toxic Chemistry of Everyday Products and What’s at Stake for American Power, are on sale at HWFC.

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