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Focus on Co-op
Suppliers: Ducks in the Garden of Spices
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by Suzanne Fisher
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Tucked away on a quiet
country road outside of Greenwich is a small white farmhouse beside
some modestly sized barn buildings. A little sign beside the driveway
reads "Garden Of Spices Farm," but not much else can be seen from the
road. The uniqueness of what is going on becomes apparent only after
one drives in and begins to look around. Ben Shaw, former teacher and
human resource and employee safety director, is farming in a very
deliberate and novel way.
I visited the farm at the beginning of December, certainly not his peak
season, but life was visible still in the fields. A few free chickens
scuttled by and several ducks flew over our heads. Chickens, turkeys,
and ducks wandered about in pastures protected by sturdy wire fencing
and large white Maremma sheep dogs. These would be the last of his
flocks sent to market this year for holiday dinners throughout the
Capital region. Inside the fences were several small metal hoop houses,
left open to the elements at each end. Ben told me that when chicks are
large enough to be outside, they spend the rest of their lifespan in
these spacious enclosures, and on grass and clover in the growing
season. He also feeds them a mix of all natural, locally grown corn,
soy, and wheat to supplement the greens and bugs they find in the grass.
Ben, his wife, and their children moved to this 70-acre, former dairy
farm 8 years ago. A friend going out of business sold them all of his
poultry processing equipment soon after, which led Ben to develop some
of his buildings into a "5A" facility. This type of facility is
licensed to process up to 20,000 birds per year for the Shaws' farm and
for other small farmers as well. The advantage for Ben's birds is that
they do not have to endure the stress of transportation before meeting
their end. Not only is this more humane, it may affect the flavor and
healthfulness of the final product. The other local small farmers who
use his services also benefit by having a processing facility much
closer to their farms than before.
In his plant, Ben can butcher about 400 chickens or 100 ducks in about
7 hours. Ducks, he explained, are harder to pluck and clean than
chicken. This past year he raised 2,000 Long Island (also known as
Peking) ducks to send to market, some of which are currently residing
in the freezer at Honest Weight. He also sold about 5,000 Cornish Cross
chickens and over 300 Broad Breasted White turkeys to restaurants, at
the Colonie and the New Central Avenue Farmers' Markets, and to
individual customers who pick up at his farm. He plans to increase his
numbers by 20-- 25% a year, trying to find a size that will help him to
invest in the farm, spend time with his children, and support his
family at the same time. He also hopes to expand his product line to
include chicken broth, which will be made from the chicken parts that
are left over from selling chicken breasts, wings, sausage, and pates.
Honest Weight has been offering duck for sale from Garden of Spices
Farm since October 2009. They weigh 4 to 6 pounds and should make for
elegant dining. Ben's farming practices are simple, sensible, and
healthful for both the consumer and the environment. He also supports
other local, small farmers with his processing plant. After seeing the
farm and talking with him, I look forward to trying some of his ducks.
If you would like to see the farm or talk to Ben yourself, the Shaws
welcome visitors who call ahead (695-6801).
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