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Carribean Cooking

by Erika Pine Weinman

Sharing a meal shares friendship, and learning the story of how a nation’s people eats helps in the understanding of other cultures. Cuisine in the island nations of the Caribbean is influenced by the many flavors each culture brought with them to the "new world." The islands were populated by indigenous peoples, the Arawaks and the Caribs. After contact, the native population was quickly decimated by disease brought by the Europeans, and overwork and their refusal to capitulate to enslavement almost wiped these peoples out. The use of limes in recipes can be traced to these Amerindian cooks. Dietary influences from Africans brought forcibly to the islands, and from East Indians who came as indentured servants to work the fields after the abolishment of slavery, combine in countries such as Trinidad to form delicious and healthy meals.

Indentured East Indians faced conditions in the Caribbean that were akin to enslavement—the foodstuffs they were rationed was simply flour and other base starches. Any other ingredients they wanted had to be purchased from their infinitesimal wages. They would combine their rations with local wild vegetables such as baji, a native strain of spinach. A staple of their diet, still popular in many Caribbean nations, is a flat, unleavened pastry called roti. The pastry-like bread is wrapped around ingredients such as dahlpurri, a curried chick pea filling. Here is one such recipe. Great roti takes practice, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts aren’t perfect.

Roti Filling

1 lb. chickpeas
2 roasted Chipotle chilies
½ cup hot water
3 TBS olive oil
5 cloves garlic
2 cloves minced garlic
3 TBS massala (an Indian spice)
1 tsp cumin seeds
2½ cups chicken stock
salt and pepper

Heat oil, add the garlic and onions to pan, and cook 5 minutes. Add cumin and massala, stirring for 1 minute Add chickpeas, chilies and chicken stock. Simmer, uncovered, until almost no liquid remains. Season with salt and pepper, and keep warm.

Roti Bread

6 cups flour
2 TBS baking powder
1½ tsp salt
1 lb. unsalted butter, diced
1 cup cold water

Sift flour, baking powder and salt. Add butter, mix until mixture is coarse crumbs. Drizzle in water, knead for 1 minute, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest 1 hour. Dust surface with flour and roll into 1½-inch balls. Roll out to a 6 inch thick, 4–5 inches wide. Coat the bottom of a large, non-stick skillet lightly with oil. Cook roti for 45–60 seconds on each side, until dough bubbles and blisters. Wrap roti around filling, about 1½ TBS per pastry. Serve immediately.

(from Norman Van Aken, New World Kitchen: Latin America and Caribbean Cuisine [New York: Harper Collins, 2003], pp. 18–19)

Plat National
(Haitian Beans & Rice)

1 can (8 oz.) pinto or kidney beans
3 cups water
1¾ tsp salt
1 clove garlic, minced
1 onion, chopped
1 TBS minced parsley
6 TBS bacon fat (you may substitute an oil)
½ tsp black pepper
¼ tsp ground cloves
1 cup rice

Sauté garlic, onion and parsley in fat, add pepper and cloves. Sauté beans, reserving liquid. Add bean water and water enough to make 5½ cups. Cook for ½ hour, add rice, and cook for approximately 14 minutes. Pour mixture into a well oiled 2-quart casserole dish, and bake at 250° for 30 minutes.

I bring the following dish to pot-lucks, accompanied by a warning about its fieriness.

Haitian Pickled Slaw

2 cups distilled wine vinegar
½ cup water
1 TBS salt
½ green cabbage
2 medium onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1–4 Scotch Bonnet peppers

Whisk vinegar, water, sugar, salt until dissolved. Stir in remaining ingredients. Let pickle overnight in refrigerator.

The tropical climate of the islands yields a great variety of fruits, some of which are only now gaining a following in our supermarkets. This recipe combines several island staples.

West Indian Banana Pudding

4 very-ripe bananas, peeled
2 eggs
½ cup sugar
6 slices bread
½ tsp vanilla
1 cup milk
4 TBS butter
1 TBS candied orange rind
pinch cinnamon
juice of 2 limes

Mash the bananas. Beat the eggs into bananas, add remaining ingredients, and beat to the consistency of a soufflé. Pour the mixture into a baking dish. Cook at 350° for 1 hour

Rum Sauce

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
½ cup dark rum

Dissolve sugar in hot water, add rum, and drizzle over each serving.

Finally, I’d like to include this Caribbean soup recipe, which has a very interesting and tasty flavor.

Curried Carrot Soup

1 lb. carrots, diced
1 onion, chopped
¾ TBS salt
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground coriander
8 tsp cayenne pepper
2 cups orange juice
1 cup vegetable juice

Coat skillet with oil. Over medium-low heat, add carrots, onion, salt, ginger, coriander and cayenne. Cook 8–10 minutes. Add orange juice, bring to boil, reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool 10 minutes. Put in blender, purée. Put back in skillet, add vegetable juice, and heat for a few minutes.

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