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Palatine Cheese

by Suzanne Fisher

“Locally produced” are two words we use a lot around here at Honest Weight Food Co-op. When possible, our managers give preference to locally grown or manufactured goods over those that have to be shipped in from other places. Palatine Valley Dairy, which has been selling its cheese to Honest Weight for five years, is a wonderful example of local production — because their cheese is made in our region, and because they are committed to buying the milk they use from small, locally owned family farms.

Earl and Carol Spencer, owners of Palatine Valley Dairy, have been affiliated with the dairy farming community where they live for years, and personally know many of their milk providers. They no longer have their own dairy due to the demands of their cheese-making operation, which employs six full-time workers and, according to Earl, is more like one big family.

Earl and Carol became involved with cheese making gradually, starting in 1985 when the Amish community in their area asked them to convert milk produced by their farms into bulk milk, which the Amish farmers then made into Palatine cheese that was sold to the public. In 2002, these Amish farmers decided to withdraw from cheese making and approached the Spencers about taking over their business. After relocating and restoring a manufacturing site and store, the Spencers soon began making their own Palatine cheese. The cheese is sold at their store and through 150 to 200 small retailers.

Located in Nelliston, in the heart of the Mohawk Valley 50 miles west of Albany, Palatine’s store and factory is open for sales and tours from 9 to 5, Monday through Saturday. Earl suggests that the best time for a tour is on Mondays in the afternoon, when the milk is being converted into the curds and whey, and then is pressed into molds or bagged as curds. Palatine Valley Dairy won first prize last year at the New York State Fair, in Syracuse, for their smoked cheddar. They make 40 varieties of cheddar, including flavors such as horseradish; smoked horseradish; tomato basil; garlic dill; fennel; plain mild, sharp and extra sharp; horseradish curd; and garlic-dill curd. All of these flavors have been carried at Honest Weight, so check for them in the cheese section and ask for flavors that you might like.

By purchasing milk from small family farms, the Spencers have made it possible for these farms to stay in existence. They bring us a taste of upstate New York in a very concrete and delicious way, and provide jobs for people who might otherwise have to move somewhere else to make a living. Try some of their cheese this summer —and experience the meaning of “locally produced” for yourself!

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