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My Crème
Brûlée
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by Gustav Ericson
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I made this once for a
television program and it took two hours to film it- completely
ridiculous, as it is one of the simplest glories of the French
repertoire. It is also rich as Croesus, and not something that you want
more than once every six weeks or so. But it will always give you
reason to smile and sigh.
1-quart heavy cream
1 vanilla bean
1 Teaspoon of your best quality vanilla
One half cup plus one tablespoon granulated sugar
6 egg yolks, from good large eggs
2 ounces light brown sugar and 2 ounces granulated sugar, mixed well
together
with your fingertips.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.
Place a double layer of paper towels into the bottom of a two-inch deep
baking pan. Place eight half-cup ramequins on the paper towel, spacing
them evenly.
Bring a teakettle of water to a simmer.
Heat the heavy cream in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with the vanilla
bean, (its Lilliputian seeds scraped into the cream, its pod tossed in)
and the vanilla extract. Heat over medium low heat, bringing it to
a simmer, allowing the vanilla to deeply infuse your cream. In a sturdy
bowl beat the yolks with a whisk, adding the sugar in a stream, and
beat till sugar has pretty much dissolved. Once you feel that your
cream has taken on a grand vanilla perfume, remove the bean. Stream
your infused cream into your liquefied yolk-sugar mixture, slowly,
whisking all the while. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a
pitcher. (Let your used vanilla bean dry out on paper towels and reuse
in another custard, or bury it with other, previously-used vanilla bean
pods in a canister of sugar. Your shortbread will never be the same).
Pour the custard into the ramequin slowly, so as not to form bubbles.
Place the custards on your oven rack which you have pulled about half
way out of the oven. Pour, again slowly, the simmering water from
your teakettle around the ramequins, going about halfway up their
sides. You have created a Bain Marie that will allow your custards to
cook slowly and evenly. Gently push the rack into the oven and close
the door. Gently. Cook for about 40 minutes, until almost set.
(Remember a little tremor in the center is not a bad thing- the
custards will continue to cook as they cool). Carefully remove the Bain
Marie to a cooling rack. When cooled slightly, use your tongs to remove
the custards to another rack. (This is good tong practice). Let cool to
room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours or, preferably,
overnight.
When about to serve, spread the combined sugars very evenly over the
cold custard, going all the way to the rim and creating an even veneer
of sugar. Torch, put under the salamander or your broiler set to high,
rotating the ramequin or your torch, to create an even, deep amber
crust. Serve immediately, appreciating the shatteringly crisp veneer
contrasting with the cold and creamy custard underneath.
This is loosely based on the old Le Cirque’s recipe, but with heavy
tweaking.
As always, all ingredients for these recipes, and many more, are
available at the Honest Weight Food Co-op.
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