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A Director's Chair
Some weeks ago I wrote a letter to the editor of Metroland. Having received no response from them, I’d like to pass it along to Coop Scoop readers. Many of you already understand these matters better than the average Metroland reader, but you might find it interesting anyway. The letter follows.
To the editor of Metroland:

In your August 28—September 3, issue your columnist Jo Page issued a lament about the high cost of organic food. She stated that she wanted to provide healthy food for her family but “still can’t believe how much everything [healthy] costs” and often gave in and bought the cheaper, mass market items. It’s a familiar complaint. Organic food does seem to be more expensive, item for item, when compared to what’s available at the local branch of the chain supermarket. But comparing cash register costs is misleading, because much of what we pay for chain supermarket goods are hidden costs not exacted at the store itself. The real picture is much more complex.

Let me first note something which doesn’t directly address this issue but is nevertheless true and relevant. Americans spend a smaller portion of their incomes on food than any developed country. All food—organic or not—is cheap here, compared to what Europeans or even our Canadian friends pay. Europeans compensate by rewarding quality, not quantity, and eating less; they do not judge restaurants by how big the portions are as we do here, and serve fully adequate but far smaller portions at home. Much of our food is wasted.

In a larger sense, though, our food is not cheap. The price at the cash register is misleading, for at least the following five reasons:

1. Agribusiness gets tremendous subsidies from the federal government. For many items one must add 20–25% to the sticker price because of the subsidy alone. This is especially true for any item which contains corn products, one of the most highly subsidized agricultural industries; and this includes all meat and all dairy unless specifically labeled otherwise, almost anything with sweetener—overwhelmingly these days the sweetener is high fructose corn syrup—and, increasingly, even the packaging itself. We pay for those subsidies via our taxes. Large agribusiness receives them; with very few exceptions (there is some organic agribusiness) organic farming does not.

2. In addition to subsidies, large scale agribusiness consumes very large amounts of fossil fuels, both in running farm machinery and in petroleum- based pesticides and fertilizers (neither of which, remember, are used by organic farmers). Depending on how one calculates it, 17–20% of our petroleum imports are used by agribusiness. Think what would happen to the price of gas if demand for imported oil dropped by this percentage. One way of thinking of it, an oversimplification but not inaccurate, is that a half buck or so of what we pay for every gallon of gas is there because of our “cheap” food. But, you may say, we have to pay the taxes and buy the gas anyway, whether we buy organic or not. True.

So: (1) Demand an end to subsidies for large agribusiness (if we must have subsidies they should go to the small, often organic, farmer); and (2) Lessen the demand for the goods of these producers by buying alternatives. Let the market (that darling of capitalist ideology) respond accordingly.

3. There are further costs. Most agribusiness products in the U.S. are grown in California or in the feedlots and factory farms of the Midwest, which is great for their economies but not so great for us. Organic farming tends to be localized, supplying their local market wherever they are. This reduces their carbon footprint (and we all benefit from this because we will all pay—heavily—for global warming if we don’t reduce its spread); usually reduces their dependence on exploited legal or undocumented migrant workers (think about immigration policy here, friends); and, most importantly, the cash we spend buying their products stays in the local market, being spent and re-spent by the local farmer and his/her workers. The “multiplier effect” (as economists would call it) is very high for locally produced, usually organic, goods. No imported pesticides, no oil-based fertilizers, no across-the-continent trucking. A more robust local economy, money staying locally, means local tax rates can go down or we can expect better services: either way, we benefi t. We might even know the farmer, if we buy at a farmer’s market—a benefit which is not quantifiable but certainly enriches our sense of community.

4. Another indirect cost is that agribusiness is environmentally destructive and we must pay for its remediation directly, through programs to rescue our water or air supply, or indirectly, because of global warming. We all know of topsoil loss (the famous dust storms of the ’30s are still here in another form), of algae blooms due to fertilizer in the water, of fish die-off, etc. These costs are hard to quantify, but they are very real and every time we buy from the mass supermarket we support the destruction of our environment.

5. When chain supermarket buyers do go beyond the United States—for example, for coffee—they buy the cheapest available, not the fair-traded goods which guarantee the local producer a fair wage. The result is impoverishment of that country’s agricultural sector, requiring national governments to “stabilize” the situation—provided that they are paid by the U.S. government to do so. Or local farmers, unable to live in competition with U.S. agricultural demands, turn to other lucrative but illegal crops, such as drugs. How much of our “foreign aid” and “war on drugs” expenditure is due to the mass market food industry? Who knows? I’m sure that the chain grocery store buyers don’t see the connection—they are just buying what is cheapest; but that doesn’t mean the connection is not there.

Can we add all this together? What are the real costs, monetary and otherwise, of supermarket food, and how do they really compare with organic, especially local organic? In the long run, it may even be more expensive to buy “cheap” food, but it’s hard to say this with certainty because we just don’t have the information. (A famous economist once said, speaking of economic data, that “ignorance is seldom random,” meaning that often we don’t know something because someone doesn’t want us to know; comparative food costs is one of these areas.) But if the price differential is really ambiguous and unclear, then there is really only one question: Which is better for us and our children? Jo Page understands that eating organically is better, but she poses it as an “either better food or cheaper food” choice, which I think is a false dichotomy. Eat less, of better quality, mostly organic or at least locally produced. We’ll all be better off.
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