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Lactic Acid Fermentation of Vegetables

by Louise Frazier

Each year the growing season should yield produce for lactic-acid fermentation, as there is such a wide variety of vegetables that could be used. Thomas Stenius operates a flourishing enterprise in Järna, Sweden, where I learned the art of fermenting vegetables. Cabbage, cucumbers, carrots, beets, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower, squash, pumpkin, celeriac, kohlrabi, Swiss chard stems and turnips — both individually and in mixtures that might contain corn, onion, garlic, radish, peppers, tomatoes, or peas are vegetables to consider for lactic acid fermentation. Where there is an over-abundance of a crop, the surplus could be fermented to be enjoyed later, especially in winter, in this enhanced form.

A good fermented product begins with healthy soil. In Sweden it was found that vegetables grown in soil composted in the traditional biodynamic organic manner produce the best results, as those that are chemically fertilized or subjected to chemical insecticides do not have the capacity for the bacteria essential to lactic-acid fermentation to develop. Direct spreading of manure on the soil without composting showed similar chemical effects.

Fermentable lactic acid bacteria are contained in the intercellular spaces as well as on the surface of vegetables grown with biodynamic/organic compost. Fermentation is best when lactic acid can develop solely through the vegetable’s own capacities. A good quality storage vegetable can be held for a time at cool temperatures before fermenting. The root vegetables and a good quality cabbage, for example, may be fermented until the winter solstice. Others, such as cucumbers, green beans, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower or Swiss chard stems are best fermented fresh from harvest.

Fermentation starts in the preparation phase, beginning with the first cut into the vegetable whereby decomposition occurs and continues for a time, until lactic acid begins to develop and predominate the process. Then there is a change to revitalization. The first three days of fermentation are critical for this. Correct temperatures must be maintained. Fermenting temperatures vary according to each vegetable’s needs. After 10 to 21 days at the correct temperature, fermentation is complete. The vegetables must then be kept 6 to 8 weeks at a cold temperature for the aroma and taste to develop. Only then is the process complete. Fermentation and storage periods require darkness.

Annelies Schoeneck, from whom Thomas learned the art of fermentation, spent many years in the same part of Sweden fermenting all kinds of vegetables. Both have successfully held good quality batches of sauerkraut, gherkin pickles and beets for one to two years in cold storage. Containers and vessels should be thoroughly washed, but sterilization is unnecessary. With tightly sealed lids, the lactic acid in a well-fermented product can prevent the development of destructive and disease-causing microorganisms, as an anaerobic environment is important. Choose a 2- or 3-liter clamp-type food preserving jars with rubber ring seal — regular canning jars won’t hold the pressure building up in the warm fermentation process.

Cooking is not necessary for vegetable fermentation, with the exception of green beans. They are the only vegetable that needs to be cooked briefly before fermenting so that the toxic substance phasein contained in leguminous vegetables decomposes. Also, unpeeled red beets should be blanched to kill unwanted bacteria on the surface; otherwise they can be peeled, which is not usually necessary in other root vegetables.

Herbs and spices make an important contribution to the fermentation process. They are rich in minerals and trace elements that are often lacking in our modern day diet, and they enhance the flavor of fermented foods. Their particular value to the process is in preventing decay, thereby improving the keeping quality of the product. Salt is also significant in fermentation, using 0.8% to 1.5% of total prepared vegetable weight — 1 tsp. per pound. Similar measures of herbs and spices are recommended. Salt prevents putrification from the break down of protein present in vegetables and keeps yeast from developing the environment into an alcohol fermentation, leading to decay. Cucumbers require 1.5% to 2% by weight, as they contain a lot of water and water is added for fermenting. Salt that is not iodized, such as sea salt, is recommended, as added iodine kills necessary bacteria.

By carefully guiding this living process of fermentation from selection to table, a delicious food can be offered to brighten the dark wintery season and improve health. Recently, lactic acid fermentation has been rediscovered after it was almost lost as an art in western civilization, while chronic disease has risen and immunity levels lowered. Since earliest times every culture appears to have had lactic acid fermentation in one form or another, and some still do. We have all heard of Russian borscht, traditionally made from fermented beets; yogurt, a fermented milk product from the Middle East; and Japanese miso, made from fermented soybeans. While being seen as a way to preserve food, fermentation also has long been recognized as important to health.

Barrels of sauerkraut enabled ships like those of Captain Cook to be at sea for long periods of time, maintaining a healthy crew without any cases of scurvy. Not only is vitamin C preserved in lactic acid fermentation, but healthy intestinal flora are able to be built up in the human organism to combat disease. Annelies Schoeneck calls fermentation the “medicinal art of the kitchen,” and recommends eating a little fermented food every day for health, preferably raw, as its valuable acetylcholine and enzymes are killed when heated above 112°F. Acetylcholine has a calming effect on the nervous system and is beneficial to the heart and blood pressure. Enzymes are required in the metabolic process, many of which must be obtained from our food, as is vitamin B12, which develops with the build-up of lactic-acid in fermented vegetables, and is essential to blood-cell formation and DNA synthesis. We cannot produce it ourselves and need trace amounts of it to live. Lactic acid itself is excellent for our digestion. It normalizes the acid level of our intestines and stomach, acts as a disinfectant killing infectious bacteria, and helps restore healthy bacteria. Since antibiotics destroy good and bad bacteria alike in our systems, eating fermented vegetables during and after taking them helps rebuild our body’s defenses. Sauerkraut, as well as the crushed juniper berries added to it, are beneficial to people with diabetes. Dr. Louis Pasteur declared sauerkraut to be the healthiest of vegetables. It has been prescribed for colds, grippe, to clean the colon, lungs and blood, for pregnancy, and even against worms. With all its cleansing capabilities, it is recommended for skin problems, especially acne. Fermented vegetables have been found to be helpful in fighting candidia, in stimulating the immune system, and in normalizing cells tending towards cancer, according to recent studies in Germany. They are also good spring tonics. In addition to preserving the particular qualities of the fresh vegetable, lactic-acid fermentation enhances them through the development of new and vital substances, known currently as “probiotics.” Thus it is that fermented vegetables can help revitalize human beings. Treat yourself to the different varieties available in the left section of the big coolers just outside the café in the Coop! They are delicious tossed in green, pasta or whole grain salads this time of year!

At the request of some Coop members, I will be giving workshops on preparing lactic acid fermented vegetables in the fall. They are scheduled for Tuesday, September 20 from 2 to 4 pm; Wednesday, October 19 from 10 to 12 noon; and Wednesday, November 16 from 6 to 8 pm in the Coop Café from 11 am to 1 pm. Call Nate at the Coop to reserve a place, as space is limited. Please bring an apron!

(Several varieties of fermented vegetables — including beets, carrots and daikon — are available in the refrigerator case at the Coop. – ED.) Louise Frazier: All Rights Reserved 8/20/05

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